Fender 6G15 Reverb Unit

General Description

The Fender Reverb Unit (6G15) was a tube, spring reverb-equipped effects unit made by Fender. The Reverb Unit was originally introduced in 1961. It was discontinued in 1966 and was replaced by a solid-state model, the FR1000.[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fender_Reverb_Unit#cite_note-1|[1]]] The unit features three controls: Dwell, Mix and Tone and is run by two pre-amp tubes and a power tube. Physically the unit looks like a small ampilfier head and since the early '60s the unit has become synonymous with surf music.

Variants

Theory of Operation

Block diagram from the Fender Owner's Manual, (Fender P/N 047980) Note: Reissue unit depicted with 6V6 tube in lieu of original 6K6, see discussion below.

FenderReverbBlockDiagram.JPG

Reverb Drive Path

The first stage uses one half of the 12AT7 and provides a voltage gain. A voltage divider reduces the signal and then it is sent to the Dwell control (250K pot), which determines the amount of signal sent to the reverb drive circuit.

The reverb drive circuit consists of the second half of the 12AT7 preamp tube, a high-pass filter, a 6K6 power tube, and the reverb transformer.

The signal is amplified by the 12AT7 and sent through an RC high-pass filter which rolls off low frequencies below 300Hz.

The 6K6GT power tube supplies power necessary to drive the reverb transformer. Although a 6V6 driver tube is used in the 90's reissue, the power tube biasing resistor is the same value used by the 6K6 circuit. This larger value causes the 6V6 to be overbiased (cold), limiting output power and causing early distortion.

Reverb Recovery Path

The footswitch turns the reverb on and off by grounding the input to the reverb recovery circuit. One half of the 12AX7 tube amplifies the reverb return signal.

The Tone control attenuates the high frequencies ( I can run a PSpice simulation to illustrate the effect of the tone control settings)

Dry Signal Path

1/2 of the 12AX7 is used as a cathode follower buffer amplifier for the dry signal. The input to the dry signal path is directly in parallel with the reverb drive path!

Mixer Circuit

The Mixer circuit is a simple resistive mixer consisting of a 50K linear taper pot. One side of the pot is fed by the dry signal path and the other is fed by the reverb recovery circuit. The control is essentially a pan pot that favors the dry signal at 0 and the wet signal when set to 10. This is in contrast to the Reverb control used in the combo amps, which simply controls the amount of reverb recovery signal mixed into the dry signal path.

As the Mixer control is turned up from zero, additional resistance is placed in series with the output of the dry signal path (the cathode follower). This additional resistance forms a low-pass RC filter with the capacitance of the cable used to connect the reverb unit to the amplifier. The resultant filter removes high frequencies from the dry signal, an effect known as 'tone suck'. (I can run PSpice simulations to illustrate the amount of high-frequency loss in the dry signal caused by the Mixer control settings)

Output Buffer Circuit (70's reissue only)

A 4th preamp tube is added. A cathode follower is used to isolate the Mixer output from the guitar cable/amplifier load imedance. The goal is to prevent tonal variations (tone suck) as the Mixer control is turned up. The buffer prevents the patch cable capacitance from interacting with the Mixer control resistance, mitigating the RC filtering effect.

Discussion regarding orientation of the reverb pan

Adjunct to the discussion below regarding swap of the pan, orientation of the pan (hanging vertically vs. horizontally in the floor of a combo amp) can influence tonality beyond the convenience aspect of connecting it with the RCA-plugged cables and should be the prime decision-maker in the PN ordered (slightly longer RCA cables can easily be obtained).

It's been pointed out that the difference between the vertical and horizontal reverb tanks has to do with the the "ideal mounting plane" for the tank inside the cabinet. The ideal plane is one that allows the transducer magnet to be centered in the "air gap" between the magnet and the transducer. Tanks made for vertical mount are "the best positioned mechanically to maintain that air gap". Tanks made for horizontal mount have some mechanical compensation added to the magnets position. That is, the magnets in horizontal tanks have been "factory adjusted" to be centered in the air gap for the horizontal mounting plane. This "factory adjustment" is considered less desirable from an electro- mechanical perspective. Some would argue that horizontal tanks are not as "musical" as well, although one would be hard put to fault an older Hammond tank in a Twin Reverb operating up to par.

Issues

Troubleshooting

- Did you unlock the reverb spring pan?

- Check or replace the RCA connector cables.

- Check and/or replace the tubes one by one.

- Check and/or replace the pan.

- Also inspect the inside of the pan. Some pans have pieces of foam on the inside to avoid spring movement when the lock is engaged. These foam pads sometimes crumble or fall off, blocking the springs.

[description of tone suck here]

Grounding of the Reissue-Unit

A resistor (R23) places 15 ohms of resistance between audio ground and chassis/earth ground. This minimizes hum by eliminating ground loops internally and externally when connection with other units. Two Diodes (wired back to back, CR5 & 6) across R23 provide an alternate path to earth ground if R23 opens. This was added as a safety measure in the event the guitar amp's chassis becomes electrified. Source: Fender '63 Reverb Reissue Service Manual, June 1994, Rev. A.

Others

Kendrick, Texotica, Gomez, etc.

Kits, both tube and solid-state

The reissue "Cap Mod": One popular modification that is made (based on individual tone objectives) is to replace a capacitor (C10) which, per the Fender Service Manual (June 1994 Rev. A), "provides a slight bass roll off which is affected by the position of the Mix control in relation to the input impedance of the guitar amplifier." The manufacturer specification calls for a 250pF capacitor in that position; the most common replacement value is 390pF, although values up to 500pF have been used to good effect depending upon the amount of "warmth" the owner may wish to restore and gaining some additional degree of range in use of the Mixer control. A good description of this modification can be found at this page. Based on the author of that page recovering a 270pF cap from the unit (vs. the Service Manual spec) it's clear that some tolerance exists in the manufacturing process, likely based on what values are available in terms of parts supply.

Swapping the original reverb pan: This is not really a mod, but is notable because different reverb pans provide different things to different people based on their tone requirements. It is often seen with late-model re-issue reverb tanks as many seem to feel the characteristics of the current Accutronics (now Belton) offering are not up to the tone that has been synonymous with Fender reverb and the Accutronics pans of the past. One thing to note in procuring a replacement pan for an outboard Fender tank is the correct part number (PN). All the characters in a reverb pan's PN mean something. The correct PN for a Fender replacement outboard reverb pan meant to hang vertically, as opposed to one lying horizontal in the bottom of a combo amp, is PN 4AB3C1C. The Accutronics specifications table can be found here. An audio example that compares the current Accutronics pan with a MOD brand replacement can be found at this site in the Downloads section here.

Tube Swaps: The most common tube swap performed on the Reissue unit is to install a 6K6 tube in lieu of the modern 6V6, which were really used simply because of the sheer numbers available for production and being a very common power tube. The 6K6 is the tube for which the original circuit design was meant. 6K6's are easily obtainable from better amp repair houses or online from such places as KCA NOS Tubes. (A new Sovtek 6K6 was purchased 5 March 2014 locally in Wisconsin for $13, true NOS tubes are somewhat more but quite affordable.)

Another tube swap that may or may not be of interest is substitution of a 5751 tube in place of the standard full-gain 12AX7. One member reports that this was tried with a tank with a MOD pan and full-functionality was retained, although some additional "chiminess" was present that wasn't before, as if the Accutronics tank had been re-installed. This is a subjective tone judgment obviously, however, those who keep both pans around for various situations may wish to experiment. If the simple swapping of the tube that performs the mixer & tone functions changes the tone sufficiently, it may be more convenient to simply change the tube rather than pull one pan & re-install the other. It may be that the 12AX7 buffers too much of the dry signal (and its highs) resulting in the "tone suck" condition mentioned above. Perhaps the 5751 - at 70% of the gain of a 12AX7 - doesn't buffer the highs as much as the regular tube. (Comment regarding this from a competent tech with reference to the schematic would be welcome.)

Honorable Mention (placeholders, Under Construction)

The Fender amps that have a 3-knob reverb circuit (Vibro-King, Dual Professional)

Modules that can be added to a combo amp.

Pedals that allege to duplicate the sound of the 6G15 circuit, e.g., Boss FRV-1 & others.

Popular mods/tube swaps.

Using the Normal channel of a 2-channel amp as a tone-control for a combo amp's onboard reverb. (Patching, practical effect in use, etc.)

SG101